Lanna Cuisine: Cooking A Northern Thai Feast in Chiang Mai

I’ll never forget the smell of grilled herbs and roasted chilies drifting through the open-air kitchen that morning in Chiang Mai. It was still early, and the streets buzzed with energy as we walked to the local market—our first stop in a Northern Thai cooking class. This wasn’t just a casual lesson in Thai food. It was an immersive dive into Lanna cuisine, guided by Ann, a warm and knowledgeable local chef. Are you ready for this Northern Thai Feast?

As a follow-up to my A First Taste of Chiang Mai’s Northern Thai Cuisine article, this cooking class deepened my understanding of the region’s flavors. From Khao Soi to Gaeng Hang Le, it was the perfect way to build on what I’d learned before, bringing these dishes to life with my own hands.

Ann met us with a smile and immediately pulled us into the rhythm of the market. She knew every vendor by name and showed us how to pick the freshest herbs, root vegetables, and cuts of pork belly for our feast. We weren’t just shopping—we were learning the soul of Northern Thai food, one ingredient at a time. There were no shortcuts or pre-made pastes. Under Ann’s guidance, we would cook every dish from scratch, using the same techniques passed down through generations.

Back at the cooking school just outside Chiang Mai, we laid out our finds and got to work. With Ann’s encouragement, we chopped, pounded, and stirred, using the mortar and pestle to unlock the full aroma of fresh lemongrass, turmeric, and makrut lime leaves.

First, we made nam prik noom, a smoky green chili dip crushed with garlic and shallots. It paired beautifully with sai oua, the Northern Thai herb sausage bursting with lemongrass, kaffir lime, and chili. As we tasted our creations, Ann explained how each dish reflects the flavors and values of Lanna culture—bold, earthy, and meant to be shared.

Next, we prepared aeb gai, wrapping spiced chicken in banana leaves and grilling it over charcoal. The aroma that rose from the grill was irresistible.

Then came the Northern laab, a dish that completely challenged my expectations. This version was nothing like the bright, minty laab of the northeast. Ann showed us how to toast and grind spices like cumin and star anise to build its deep, earthy flavor. Warm, rich, and complex, it was a revelation—especially when eaten with sticky rice, as tradition calls for.

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Our final dish was Gaeng Hang Lay, the iconic slow-cooked pork belly curry of Northern Thailand. Ann taught us to balance tamarind, palm sugar, and fermented garlic to create the dish’s signature sweet-sour depth. As it simmered, the kitchen filled with the scent of warming spices and anticipation. The result? Tender, melt-in-your-mouth pork bathed in a rich, flavorful sauce that felt like the very soul of Chiang Mai cuisine.

We ended the class gathered around the table, sticky rice in hand, scooping up bites of curry, dips, and sausage. Eating with your hands wasn’t just allowed—it was expected. It grounded the experience, made it intimate. I didn’t feel like a tourist. I felt like a guest.

Thanks to Ann’s generous teaching and deep-rooted knowledge, I left not only full, but deeply connected to Lanna food culture and the flavors of Northern Thailand.

If you’re headed to Chiang Mai, I highly recommend finding a Northern Thai cooking class with a market tour. Choose one led by a local chef like Ann, who brings not just recipes, but cultural depth and personal stories to the experience. You’ll walk away with far more than cooking skills—you’ll carry a piece of Northern Thailand with you.

If you’re planning a trip to Chiang Mai and want a truly immersive culinary experience, I highly recommend taking a cooking class with Chef Ann. She offers market tours and hands-on lessons in traditional Northern Thai (Lanna) cuisine, all from her cozy outdoor kitchen.

Annuma Boonna (Ann)
📍 Location: Thavisit Beauty Home Tour 24/00129, Chiang Mai, Thailand
📞 Phone: +66 81 764 3546
🌐 Youtube: Click Here!

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